For Natalie's last night in Australia, and our final and greatest wildlife adventure of this trip, we drove down the South Gippsland highway past the wineries along the Bass River, on past the famous Woolamai peninsula with its world-class surfing beach, to the small town of Cowes on Phillip Island, and then on to the western side of the island where we visited "The Nobbies" before hunkering down for sunset and the nightly ritual known as the "Penguin Parade".
Waterfront in Cowes
We had been duly warmed to "rug up" as they say down here, in anticipation of the freezing temperatures and antarctic winds common on the island, and so we brought our requisite cold weather gear along with us. As the sign outside the Penguin Parade says "the penguins don't mind the cold, but you might"!!
The Nobbies
But when we got to The Nobbies, the weather was glorious, and we were more concerned with the flocks of aggressive seagulls swarming over our heads that felt like they had spent a bit too much rehearsal time watching Alfred Hitchcock's "The Birds" on dvd, than we were with the gusty wind.
We didn't see any of the sea lions advertised to make their home on those rocky outcroppings known as nobbies, but Natalie and I ran up and down the wooden walkways that transverse the edge of the island like we were the Wright Brothers attempting our first flight, and afterwards tucked in to a nice hot chocolate at the Nobbies cafeteria.
As dusk approached we made our way to the beach area known as the Penguin Parade. We had been tipped to pay a little bit extra to sit in the bleacher area known as "Penguin Plus", and later on we were glad that we did for the close up views that it afforded us. The guide told us that people had been gathering here informally since the 1920's and that the park and the bleachers had been put up in the 1960's as a way to manage the tourists and make a safe and protected experience for the penguins who live there.
Sitting around patiently waiting for something to happen, freezing, and trying to imagine what all the fuss is about, if I am honest one does experience a moment of doubt about the efficacy of the whole event. After all, the term penguin parade conjures up images of silly creatures dressed up in local costume and marching along to "Waltzing Matilda".
But as the dusk turns to dark and your eyes strain to see the shoreline in front of you, suddenly over the walkie-talkie of the guide we hear faintly "they're in the surf". It is impossible to describe the sublime feeling when you suddenly discern nature's own panorama of fifty or more penguins marching in unison out of the waves and on to the beach and right up over the dune towards you.
Not just the children squealed in delight and pushed forward to get an even closer view from the stands. The penguins gracefully congregate right in front of our bleachers as the three-weeks-at-sea returning fishermen vocally recognize their mates and pair off to make their way to their burrows and a noisy night of conjugal bliss.
6,000 penguins make their home in the sandy hills around the penguin parade. 60,000 or more inhabit the whole coastal area of Phillip Island. Not all of them go out to sea at once of course, but several subsequent waves of incoming penguins made their way up the beach over the course of the next hour or so, and the feeling was almost spiritual as we bore witness to their timeless life cycle.
Although frustrating for blogging purposes, I respected the fact that the park does not allow any photos or videos to be taken (I nicked the one above from the web) as it disturbs the penguins. It somehow made the whole event more pure and solemn: just us and nature.
Of course, the safety measures extended all the way into the parking lot, with a word of caution for our drive home!
All in all, it was a glorious way to end Natalie's stay down under!
william